![]() Especially before the advent of widespread CNC usage, they were heavily relied upon for contouring via manual skill comparable to a sculptor’s. The die grinder name comes from one of their earliest and archetypal applications, tool and die work, where they were used to create the precise contours of dies or molds. Flexible shaft drive versions also exist. All such tools are conceptually similar, with no bright dividing line between die grinders and rotary tools, although the die grinder name tends to be used for pneumatically driven heavy-duty versions whereas the rotary tool name tends to be used for electric lighter-duty versions. I picked up a set at Canadian Tire for just about the same price as at Princess Auto.What is a die grinder? Die grinders and rotary tools are handheld power tools used for grinding, sanding, honing, polishing, or machining material (typically metal, but also plastic or wood). Those locking nuts are WAY TOO soft a metal. Rich - The bolt extractor did turn the nut a bit before tearing the nut apart. I will be going at the nut and stud this weekend with a dremel tool and more drill bits. Fortunately I do have him as a last resort, that is if I can get the hub off with the wheel still attached. Of course I could have saved all this trouble by taking the hub and wheel into him in the first place but I like solving problems for myself. If that doesn't work he said the unbolt the front hub assembly and bring it into the shop and he'll get it out. He suggested a cut-off wheel in a dremel tool and to drill many holes around the stud into what is left of the nut, and enlarge them as much as possible and then take a cold chisel to what is left of the nut. He said that a cobalt bit won't work, not hard enough and that a carbide or diamond was the only way to drill through HSS. I had shown him my dilema before even starting. I stopped into an industrial machine shop that a friend is a part owner of and he just shoke his head. I have since stopped by an industrial products supplier and bought an 1/8" and 3/16" cobalt drill bits, which is harder (but more brittle) than the high speed steel (HSS) drill bit which is broken off in the hole. ![]() I'm very sure that inducing fatigue won't work due to the tapered nut sitting in it's tapered spot up against the wheel, it won't rock, and there just isn't very much room between the nut and the alloy wheel. My strategy is to drill through the stud with progressively larger drill bits until the stud is gone. My last resort is the cut the wheel off but as John said spare MGF wheels are like hen's teeth over here, although I do have a few spare Spitfire wheels kicking about Maybe I should be looking to get a spare wheel brought in. I thought about welding a nut on but there just isn't enough room to do this and with the nut REALLY torqued on now I don't think that method would work. Before I could stop him, he tried using a air chisel to turn off the locking nut, which didn't work but destroyed the nut. This destroyed the locking wheel nut key. What happened was the mechanic that did my safety by mistake torqued on locking wheel nut rather than taking it off.
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